Food for Thought

Story Highlights
• Recipes to add pizzazz to your tailgating party.
• ‘Commissioner of Tailgating’ has Web site devoted to tailgating.
• Find out how tailgating started.

All hail, Commissioner of Tailgating.

Football has evolved over the years, going from old-time leather helmets and no weightlifting, to present-day radio-wired helmets and high-tech weight rooms.

Football fans have evolved, too, especially with regard to tailgating. In fact, there is even a self-proclaimed Commissioner of Tailgating – Joe Cahn.

Cahn has visited every NFL stadium in the country and documented his observations on his Web site, www.tailgating.com. A chef by trade, Cahn says the food is what makes each tailgate so unique, with different regions serving up different fare.

“The climate is the major difference – it affects the types of foods that are served and how they’re served,” he says. “In the South, at the beginning of the season, tailgates are lighter fare. As it gets cooler, the grills come out.

“New England has its chowder; Kentucky has burgoo. There’s grilled salmon in Seattle, and, in California, they tend to have more wine and salads.”

But Joe Cahn says tailgating isn’t exclusive to football anymore.

“They tailgate at the Kentucky Derby, at NASCAR races – anywhere there’s a celebration of the community,” he says. “We don’t have those Fourth of July bandstand picnics anymore. Everyone is so segmented. But you get in the parking lot of a ballgame, and we’re all one. You can bring a sandwich you picked up at a store or lay out a spread to rival the best restaurant in town. Here, everyone’s equal.”

So here’s to tailgating. Pop open your favorite beverage, throw another piece of meat onto the grill, and enjoy. Because regardless of what’s about to happen on the playing field, you can always count on action outside the stadium before – and often after – the games.

Grilled Pizza Margarita

• 6 ounces pizza dough (can be purchased in grocer’s frozen food section)
• 1/4 cup virgin olive oil, for brushing and drizzling
• 1/2 teaspoon minced fresh garlic
• 1/2 cup loosely packed shredded fontina
• 2 Tablespoons freshly grated Pecorino Romano
• 6 Tablespoons chopped canned tomatoes, in heavy puree
• 8 basil leaves

Prepare a hot charcoal fire, setting the grill rack 3 to 4 inches above the coals. On a large, oiled, inverted baking sheet, spread and flatten the pizza dough with your hands into a 10- to 12-inch free-form circle, 1/8-inch thick.

When the fire is hot, use your fingertips to lift the dough gently by the two corners closest to you, and drape it onto the grill. Catch the loose edge on the grill first and slide the remaining dough into place over the fire. Within a minute the dough will puff slightly, the underside will stiffen, and grill marks will appear.

Using tongs, immediately flip the crust over, onto the coolest part of the grill. Quickly brush the grilled surface with olive oil. Scatter the garlic and cheeses over the dough and spoon dollops of tomato over the cheese. Finally, drizzle the pizza with one or two tablespoons of olive oil.

Slide the pizza back toward the hot coals, but not directly over them. Using tongs, rotate the pizza frequently so that different sections receive high heat. Check the underside often to see that it is not burning. The pizza is done when the top is bubbly and the cheese melted, about 6 to 8 minutes.

‘Hotter Than Miami in July’ Wings

• 10 to 12 chicken drumettes
• 1 Tablespoon Cajun pepper, plus more for seasoning wings
• 1 bottle chipotle pepper sauce
• Honey

Preheat a grill to medium-high. Season the wings with Cajun pepper. In a medium bowl, combine the chipotle pepper sauce with 1 tablespoon Cajun pepper, and honey, to taste. Place the wings on the grill and, as you cook them, turn them and brush each time with the pepper sauce mixture. Make sure the wings cook long enough on each side so they get crispy around the edges.

Remove the wings from the grill and brush again with the pepper sauce mixture before serving.

Grilled Corn on the Cob with Lime Butter

• 12 ears fresh corn, unshucked
• 1/2 pound (2 sticks) unsalted butter, room temperature
• 3 limes, zest finely grated
• 1 bunch fresh chervil, chopped
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 1/2 pound queso fresco, finely grated
• 1/4 cup cayenne pepper

Soak the corn in a large container of water for 1 hour. Prepare the grill. Put the soaked cobs on the hot grill and cook for 30 to 40 minutes, turning frequently. The corn is done when it feels soft when you press on it.

While the corn is grilling, make the lime butter. In a small bowl add the butter, lime zest, chervil and salt and pepper, to taste. Mix well and spread onto a large plate. Spread the queso fresco onto another plate.

Take the corn off the grill and carefully peel back the husks (it will be hot). Remove the corn silk and tie the husks in a knot so you can hold on to it like a handle. Roll in the lime butter and then roll in the queso fresco; sprinkle with the cayenne pepper. Place on a large platter and serve immediately.

 

Story By Kevin Litwin

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